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  • CodyK

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    Took the barrel and recoil spring out and I was still having the same issue. So I tore it completely back down and tried to just put the slide on the rails (completely out of the frame) and they barely fit. If I take some pliers and squeeze them together a little, they fit ok, but without squeezing them together the rails are too wide and grind on the slide. Don’t know what the hell to do. I have a $600 paper weight! It’s the Glock 17 version P80 frame and I bought a Glock gen 3 parts kit. Unless the parts kit was mislabeled and I have the wrong parts, I have no idea what to do next.
     
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    CodyK

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    Using a caliper, the width of the front rails or locking block AND the rear rails are both .90” and the width of the channel on my slide where the rails are suppose to slide is .85”. Got the slide from 80P Builder.


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    CodyK

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    Ok, I did some “high tech” fanagaling and got the slide running on the rails smoothly. I put it back together 1 pin at a time and when I get down to the back pin on the locking block, it pulls the back down enough that they aren’t level anymore and I get the grinding again. Took it all apart again and put it in the jig and all my holes are perfect according to the jig.


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    CodyK

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    All right. More “high teching” and it’s together and functioning. Not great and I haven’t shot it yet, but slide is on and it seems to be feeding and ejecting ok. I do have a question about the trigger. I’ve never had a Glock, but the stock trigger from Glock that I got in the lower parts kit has an incredible amount of take-up. Is that usual?


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    Geezer

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    Glocks are not know for having a great trigger. Let us know when you put some rounds through it to make sure that it functions.
     

    CodyK

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    c12113358a67bb4121e0225928455a36.jpg


    I still think the rails are set too low in the frame.


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    CodyK

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    Question about Glock mags while I’m on here. I bought 4 of the Gen 5 17 round mags. They have orange followers and have the dots on the back that tell you how many rounds you have in the magazine. Problem is when I put 2 in, it shows I have 4. It always shows I have 2 more rounds loaded than I really do! This whole process is blowing my mind!


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    CyberWolf

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    I put it in the jig 3 times to make sure they all lined up.


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    I'm neither gunsmith nor an expert machinist, (so take this for what it' worth), but looking at that pic, seems that the rear locking block pin is a tiny bit too low, and if it's perceptible to the naked-eye, it's likely at least several thousandths off. Try using a light, but may be difficult to tell in the jig...

    Also, (and this could just be lighting), seems that your pin holes may be a tiny bit oversized. They look to be symmetrically "over-bored" (at least on my mobile screen), which would likely be indicative of runout/wobble in your bit (how did you drill them out?).

    Would suggest contacting p80 customer service; Not sure how they'll handle it, but likely safer than any corrective actions suggested by some random dude on the interwebz. (none of this is a criticism in any way, just wanted to help and volunteer my observations)
     
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    CodyK

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    I'm neither gunsmith nor an expert machinist, (so take this for what it' worth), but looking at that pic, seems that the rear locking block pin is a tiny bit too low, and if it's perceptible to the naked-eye, it's likely at least several thousandths off. Try using a light, but may be difficult to tell in the jig...

    Also, (and this could just be lighting), seems that your pin holes may be a tiny bit oversized. They look to be symmetrically "over-bored" (at least on my mobile screen), which would likely be indicative of runout/wobble in your bit (how did you drill them out?).

    Would suggest contacting p80 customer service; Not sure how they'll handle it, but likely safer than any corrective actions suggested by some random dude on the interwebz. (none of this is a criticism in any way, just wanted to help and volunteer my observations)

    I used a dremel to drill the holes, and some 600 grit wet/dry wrapped around a small punch to clean up the holes a little. On the back rails, they’re either too high, or the front rails are too low, because when I am putting the slide back on, the extractor “pin” nearly hits the back plate. They’re definitely not level with each other. Like I said, holes in jig lined up great. Drilled one side then the other. Cleaned up the holes, and put pins in to make sure everything lined up. Everything went together great. Problem is, when I got the slide and realized the rails were wider than the slot they were suppose to go in. Did some sanding and polishing on them to make them fit, then put the frame parts together, went to put the slide on, and it seems the front rails were too low in the frame. Took everything back apart, rechecked the frame in the jig, held it up to the light, put the pins in without the parts, and everything looked great. I’m gonna take it to the range in the morning to see how it functions with live rounds. With snap caps it will chamber and eject them fine, but live rounds are a different thing. I definitely know a lot about Glocks now!!!!! Been wanting a 10mm 1911, but may get a Glock 20 instead.


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    CodyK

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    I'm wondering how weak the sanded & thinned rails will be. Will it take the force of live rounds?

    They were polished. Just took the paint off with 600 grit wet, dry. Every video I’ve ever watched on building a Polymer recommended doing it.


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    zaitcev

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    Sep 24, 2019
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    If I take some pliers and squeeze them together a little, they fit ok, but without squeezing them together the rails are too wide and grind on the slide. Don’t know what the hell to do.
    Just grind them down, taking care not to round. You can use any flat file, or even grab some sandpaper and wrap it tightly around a block of wood.
     

    zaitcev

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    I'm wondering how weak the sanded & thinned rails will be. Will it take the force of live rounds?
    If the slide does no wobble up-down on the rails, it means that the rails fill out the factory milled slide slot correctly, and therefore their thickness is just right. So they'll be fine. It would be worse if they were too thin. It's easy to remove material, not so easy to add it!
     

    CodyK

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    If the slide does no wobble up-down on the rails, it means that the rails fill out the factory milled slide slot correctly, and therefore their thickness is just right. So they'll be fine. It would be worse if they were too thin. It's easy to remove material, not so easy to add it!

    They definitely do not wobble. The problem is they’re way too tight. I just got back from the range/gun store, and they all looked at it and swear that I have the wrong slide. The gun shoots fine and in fact is pretty damn accurate but it will not cycle back and eject a round and load another one. They told me about a store locally that deals with P80’s and I’m gonna take it there tomorrow and have them look at it.


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    CodyK

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    These are the invoices for the parts I ordered. Everything should be compatible. Not sure why the slide slot is too narrow to go on the rails/locking block unless they sent the wrong one.

    c021cddc934e534a13af61bf05e4556b.jpg

    17769f30ad2b0bc7b1281a29496034f7.jpg



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    Gummi Bear

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    Mar 24, 2015
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    My brother gave me a P80 as a Christmas gift.

    I want to build a long slide (17L or 34) with it.

    He bought himself one, and is doing a G19

    It seems that most popular builds are G19 based.

    Anyone do a long slide? Does it need different tips and tricks?





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