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Any Katy mechanics?

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  • PDiddy

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    20220715_080117.jpg

    Old and New
     

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    Brains

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    If I'm seeing things right in the picture, I think you may have the wires basically one post off. The result is your timing will be very retarded. That would explain what you're hearing as well, if you're igniting the mixture after the exhaust valve has opened. You have cyl 1 wire on the first post after the batt/tach block, and that appears to be more towards the back of the motor. That means you are firing much later in the timing cycle when comparing it to your factory distributor. In reality it doesn't matter which post is #1, but it 100% matters if the wires are in sequence obviously, and also if/when the rotor lines up with the right post at the right time.

    So. That being said, see if you can twist the HEI distributor CCL so the #1 plug wire is in the same rotational position as your factory cap. If you can't twist it to that position, or things just don't line up comfortably, then simply move every plug wire one post counter clockwise to accomplish the same thing. With the motor at TDC, you can pop the cap off and visualize where the rotor is pointing, and then make sure that's where the #1 plug wire is.
     

    candcallen

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    If I'm seeing things right in the picture, I think you may have the wires basically one post off. The result is your timing will be very retarded. That would explain what you're hearing as well, if you're igniting the mixture after the exhaust valve has opened. You have cyl 1 wire on the first post after the batt/tach block, and that appears to be more towards the back of the motor. That means you are firing much later in the timing cycle when comparing it to your factory distributor. In reality it doesn't matter which post is #1, but it 100% matters if the wires are in sequence obviously, and also if/when the rotor lines up with the right post at the right time.

    So. That being said, see if you can twist the HEI distributor CCL so the #1 plug wire is in the same rotational position as your factory cap. If you can't twist it to that position, or things just don't line up comfortably, then simply move every plug wire one post counter clockwise to accomplish the same thing. With the motor at TDC, you can pop the cap off and visualize where the rotor is pointing, and then make sure that's where the #1 plug wire is.
    I thought the same thing but I thinknits the difference in the advance location on the HEI versus standard distributor. So I deleted my post.

    There are a couple pic online of HEI distributors that are the same as his.
     

    Brains

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    Realistically, #1 could be literally anywhere in the rotation. Only thing that matters is that when cyl #1 is at nearing TDC on the compression stroke, the post where the rotor is pointing needs to have the #1 plug wire on it. Then just follow the firing order with the remaining wires.
     

    PDiddy

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    Thanks everyone. Goal for today is to find TDC again and then I will take a picture with cap off and post it. I think after yesterday I am now 180 off. Interesting on the plug wires and the thought had crossed my mind.
     

    candcallen

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    Since you have power.

    To find TDC I hold my finger over the plug hole and have someone bump the starter or turn the crank till I feel the air being forced out on the compression stroke. It will be obvious and no doubt both valves are closed. You wont be able to hold it in.

    Ofcourse, if you are using the starter, remove the cap or power to the cap if you leave the distributor in just incase you were flooded or something else wierd was going on.

    As for wires on the cap being clocked one spot counter clockwise, I deleted my post because the images of HEI dustributors available show number one where you have it on that side of where the power wires hook to the cap. On a traditional cap it looks turned counter clockwise more centered over the advance. If that makes sense.

    Good luck
     

    PDiddy

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    Yes, that makes sense. The reason the new dst. is different is because I was trying different spots to see if it would start. As I am working solo, I put a Kleenex stuffed vinyl glove finger in the hole and then turned the crank bolt until it popped out. Then I moved the balancer until the mark matched up with 0 tdc.
     

    mroper

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    Doesn't look like you touched them but check your vacuum lines to. Have you tried some carb cleaner or starting fluid spray in the carb. what is the initial timing supposed to be set at ?
     

    PDiddy

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    I think I may have found the issue. I think I just assumed that #1 on this one would be the same as the original, just to the clockwise side of the vacuum advance. I reset TDC this morning using methods discussed in this thread and this is what I have. Am I crazy or can this be correct?
     

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    PDiddy

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    Doesn't look like you touched them but check your vacuum lines to. Have you tried some carb cleaner or starting fluid spray in the carb. what is the initial timing supposed to be set at ?
    The Jeep ran just fine before I decided to switch the Distributor, I know it is getting gas. Thanks for the response.
     

    jmohme

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    I think I may have found the issue. I think I just assumed that #1 on this one would be the same as the original, just to the clockwise side of the vacuum advance. I reset TDC this morning using methods discussed in this thread and this is what I have. Am I crazy or can this be correct?
    If you are positive that you are at TDC now, just make sure that #1 plug wire is in the position where the rotor is pointing and then follow the firing order 1,5,3,6,2,4.
     
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