sporterizing a 91/30

[irishthunder50]

This winter/summer i want to start a at home project. I had two idea's either build up a 1911 or sporterize a mosin nagant for deer hunting. I decided to sporterize the nagant. I have basic tools right now. Punches, Files, pliers, a vice, screw drivers, wrenches and so forth. What i want to do is once i find a 91/30 with a good bore is cut the barrel down to 22 or 24 inches (any major benifets to one or the other) mount a scope, replace the stock (bed the action and free float the barrel), and replace the trigger. I helped bed a couple of M-14 actions last year while in iraq (i am a small arms repairmen in the army) but what can i do myself and what do i need to have a gunsmith do? Also what tools and supplies will i also need to get. Would pillar bedding or glass bedding be better in this case? Is cutting the barrel and recrowning something i can do fairly simply on my own or is this something i should have a gunsmith do when i have them install the scope mount? What finish would you recomend i use? here is a list of what i know i am goin to use right now

Stock
ADVANCED TECHNOLOGY : Mosin Nagant (019-210-010) - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools they dont have it up there but the ATI camo stock

Trigger
HUBER CONCEPTS : Mosin Nagant Match-Grade, Black Teflon (100-001-444) - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools

Scope mount
ADVANCED TECHNOLOGY : MOISIN NAGANT SCOPE MOUNTING SYSTEM - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools

As far as what i use to bed the rifle with or what finish to apply i would appreciate any recomendations. In the end I really am just looking for it to look like a nice hunting rifle and tight groups. I have reloading dies for 7.62x54R and i wont feed it any surplus junk ammo. Any help or recomendations would be greatly appreciated

 

[texasislandboy]

i was going to do the same thing last year and might still sometime this year let me know how it works out

 

[chubbyzook]

bedding the action can be done fairly simple with some liquid metal or jb weld is what i used. rock solid industries also makes bedding pillars that bed the action properly, they also make a scope mount. the ati scope mount is very solid and way less than the rock solid industries one. you will need to have the bolt handle bent to accommodate the scope, i used a guy on ebay that is very recommended (cant remember his user name). you can probably type in mosin bent bolt and find his name. floating the barrel is very easy aswell. also keep the original stock. they are sought after and can be sold for about the same amount as the ati stock. the barrel length really doesnt matter if your only taking a few inches off, and let a gunsmith do it. its very easy to mess up and completely ruin the barrel.
and a good bore and good headspacing will do alot for accuracy. and run all the commie surplus you want through it, mines pretty accurate with it grouping 1.5 inches or less at 100 yards is pretty common.

 

[Charley]

I'm of two different mindsets about chopping a classic rifle. Yep, there are a ton of them, and they are cheap right now. Sporterizing has been done in the US since the days of flintlocks and smoothbores. Do remember, though, once you cut, you can't go back.

If you are going ahead, you might do some research and look at some Finnish MNs that have been sportered. Lots of hunting rifles built on Mosin actions, and you might get some ideas for style, so you won't have the same rifle as everyone else with your idea.

Not sure if the synthetic stocks for the MNs need to be bedded, most synthetics are molded pretty closely to the action, and there isn't much "slop" to bed out.
Cutting the barrel isn't tough, nor is crowning. If you are going to build a rifle, learning is part of the process.

Bending the bolt just doesn't cut it, the bolt handle will need to be extended, similar to the MN sniper versions. Not hard to do, but more than you want to see on an open forum.

Finish isn't tough, rust blueing is simple and inexpensive.

I'm no gunsmith, but I've built up a fair number of Mausers for hunting use, shortened barrels on various rifles, replaced triggers, etc, all on my own guns.

If I can help, PM me and I'll be happy to tell you some of my methods and technoques.

 

[CanTex]

Agree with Charley,
Make sure you are using a basic 91/30 and not a collectors item.

Go on line and search through the vast amount of fair/poor and good information that is out there.

Stock choice, if you go with the synthetic, why bed

Barrel cutting/crowning. Check out Midway USA or some of the other sites, they show how too. Easy to do with basic tools

Replacement bent bolts are out there, as are kits to make yours into a bent bolt.

Cold blue, duracoat or other finishes... also easy to do

Have used duracoat done cold blue and am happy with results of both. For a wet weather, beater type hog/deer gun, Duracoat.

I have a 91/30 on the bench right now. Project is to Scout scope/refinish original wood/upgraded butt pad/re-blued and off to the hogs it will go. Spending about 4 hours and 50 bucks for upgrading. (had leftovers from other projects that shaved costs)

Also have a Turkish Mauser awaiting Duracoat and the new wooden stock I ordered in October. Cut barrel, removed existing sights, bent bolt kit, drilled and tapped for scope, re-crowned and jeweled the bolt. All done in the garage.

Tools I used, Drill press, chop saw with metal blade, Files, lapping compound (for jeweling the bolt) Torch (to remove old sights) Screwdrivers and assorted other hand tools. Good luck and enjoy...

 

[texasislandboy]

i need to pick one up soon and start a beater build

 

[phatcyclist]

I've tweaked my 91/30 a little bit, nothing like a full sporter build but I've improved it.

I have a Huber Concepts trigger in mine and I really like it. The stock trigger was horrible compared to some, very heavy and gritty. I replaced the trigger/sear spring with a thinner one I had as a spare and went to town with my polishing attachment on my Dremel. The place where the ball in the Huber trigger rides is not a mirror finish and it breaks very light. The pull is long though. I think Timney makes a full trigger replacement now that also has a side safety like a Remington. It's much safer than the quasi-safety that the gun was designed with. The only possible drawback is that you would need to remove material from the stock, but if you're putting it into a different stock that's not really an issue. The trigger costs about what my Huber was.

If I do my part, I can get under 2" consistently with good ammunition. I imagine a re-crown might improve that some but I'm not that worried. I've hunted with it before and I get consistent neck shots on whitetail at 100 yards open sights, that's as good as I need it to be. Have fun with it, they are great guns.

 

[lmao_37]

I have sporterized a 1942 mosin 91/30 but i went a compleatly different route with it,first of all i paid $140 for the rifle when i got home i got some NEVERDULL and polished the bore for about 3 hours until it had a shine like a mirror as it had the cosmoline removed but the bore was dull then i stripped the bolt down and polished with some 1800 grit wet and dry paper then polished with neverdull and greased it now the bolt is so smooth, then i went and shot it just to see what it was like, then i ordered a walnut stock from boyds rifle stocks which was $74 and the scope mount base and drop handle bolt i got the bedding pillars from rocksolid industries which came to about $164 and the scope came from barska which is a 4-16x50 sniper scope it cost $99 with free shipping and since then i have fitted a bipod and floated the barrel and fitted a buttpad and a sling, next its going to get a timney trigger, it shoots really well but i want a smoother trigger. i didnt like the look of the ATI stuff as it didnt seem as good quality and i have read a bunch of complants of the ATI scope mount not be very strong as the scope mount only has 2 mounting points and the rocksolid mount has 3 mounting points i went with the rocksolid one and as the name suggests once you tighten up the 3rd mounting bolt it has no play or travel in it, it does live up to its name, and now i cant wait to go pig hunting with it.


MOSIN NAGANT

Mosin Nagant


4-16x50 IR Sniper Scope by Barska Green Ir mil-dot - Riflescope by BARSKA


I h

 

[majormadmax]

I will admit I am one of those Mosin "purists" who collect the rifle for its historical aspects; but I have to also admit that the above Mosin hunting rifle that lmao_37 built is very nicely done!

The 7.62x54R is a great round for many reasons but I have never hunted with it. I'd be interested in hearing how effective it is...

Cheers! M2

 

[Mikewood]

I got to say i think this is a bad idea. You got a $60.00 rifle that you plan to sink several hundred dollars into. When you are done you will
Still have a $120 rifle. It won't shoot well and you will have spent more for it than a good rifle.

Consider this. Buy an entry level Remington 700 BDL with a synthetic stock. Add a trigger, good glass and good base. Then better stock, new barrel. With a little more money over a few years you will have a sub MOA sniper rifle.

 

[chubbyzook]

the one posted above you shoots well and with practice will shoot better
not many entry level rifles can get with a scope for 300 bucks

 

[majormadmax]

I tell ya something else, I can get 7.62x54R a heckuva lot cheaper than .308!

 

[Jakashh]

I have no experience with ATI stocks, but i'm sure there are better options, such as Boyd's stocks. You have to do some inletting, but all in all i think that would get you a better end result.

 

[lmao_37]

I tell ya something else, I can get 7.62x54R a heckuva lot cheaper than .308!

Thats one of the reasons why i brought it cheap ammo, last time i went to the range i shot over 100 rounds and it cost under $30.00 and hunting ammo is cheap to if you shop around.

I got to say i think this is a bad idea. You got a $60.00 rifle that you plan to sink several hundred dollars into. When you are done you will
Still have a $120 rifle. It won't shoot well and you will have spent more for it than a good rifle.

Consider this. Buy an entry level Remington 700 BDL with a synthetic stock. Add a trigger, good glass and good base. Then better stock, new barrel. With a little more money over a few years you will have a sub MOA sniper rifle.

I didnt do it for making money i did it because it was going to be a challange and its my first project rifle and iam new to shooting and iam going to enjoy using it as a hunting rifle and in 500-1000 yard matches.

 

[MR Redneck]

Looks pretty good with the news stock on it.
If hunting large game in Texas, the mag cant hold more then 5 rounds.

 

[irishthunder50]

I havent started the project yet but i had the same idea. If i wanted a deer hunting rifle that holds it value for the work put into it then i would just go get a remington 700 or something. However i thought for a first project gun this would be a fun idea and something i could use for deer and hog hunting. I already own a Marlin 336 in 30-30 and a Remington 700 in .300 win mag. lmao_37 your rifle looks very nice

 

[MR Redneck]

I havent started the project yet but i had the same idea. If i wanted a deer hunting rifle that holds it value for the work put into it then i would just go get a remington 700 or something. However i thought for a first project gun this would be a fun idea and something i could use for deer and hog hunting. I already own a Marlin 336 in 30-30 and a Remington 700 in .300 win mag. lmao_37 your rifle looks very nice

I want a 336 pretty bad. I bought a bunch of Fire department raffle tickes that has 50 guns and 50 chances to win. Hope I win one of the 4 thats in there. I also bought a bunch of "friends of the NRA tickets" with a bunch of good stuff in it.

 

[CanTex]

I got to say i think this is a bad idea. You got a $60.00 rifle that you plan to sink several hundred dollars into. When you are done you will
Still have a $120 rifle. It won't shoot well and you will have spent more for it than a good rifle.

Consider this. Buy an entry level Remington 700 BDL with a synthetic stock. Add a trigger, good glass and good base. Then better stock, new barrel. With a little more money over a few years you will have a sub MOA sniper rifle.

I think you miss understand the reasons for the project. It is as much the satisfaction you achieve in building something yourself, or improving upon what currently exists. I have more "personal value" in guns that I have worked on, be they $50 project guns that I have invested 30 or more hours of work than I do in the $1500 skeet gun that sits next to them in the gun safe. Anyone can spend money, not anyone can create a unique piece that holds a special place in their collection. A piece that their friends admire and understand. IMAO_37, sweet looking gun.

 

[Mikewood]

Please be aware that you may be looking at a gun that shoots 12MOA both before and after all your hard work. It may shoot 6 MOA after your work. That is very good for a gun that is expected to take deer at 100yds.
I was only suggesting you might get more personal satisfaction from a rifle capable of much greater accuracy.
Good luck in your endeavor

 

[lmao_37]

The target photo's i put up were shot before and after i worked on my project rifle as you can see there is a vast improvement in the accuracy also the 1st target was shot using Kentucky windage as the front sight was off 6 inches to the left at 50 yards now the rifle is very much more accurate and with pratice i will be shooting it alot more accuratly but i did choose from 6 rifles in the store and brought the one with the a smooth action and the best barrel out of the bunch but mine also was arsenal refinised at some point and in a lot better condition than alot of others i have seen and the bore has been recrowned but not counter bored but its not a collectors piece it is a box standard 91/30 just like the other 900,000 rifles made that year at that arsenal. My brother in law brought a Remmington 770 rifle in 270 and its had the bolt handle come off and it has other issues my rifle was made during wartime so it does have lathe marks and milling machine marks left on it and it is rough round the edges but mine works alot better than my brother in laws and mine cost more than his did total so buying a new made rifle doesnt always work but he does have warrenty but my ammo is cheaper.