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  • CodyK

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    Yes, I understand that they are too thick or too wide now. I'm just addressing OMFS' concern about grinding them too thin.

    I probably should have just bought a Glock! I watched too many damn videos of people flying through the build with a drill, throwing it together and everything working fine. I figured if I took my time, checked and double checked everything, that I would be ok. For the life of me I can’t figure out what the hell i have done wrong. But I guess if the rails won’t fit in the slide then it’s the wrong rails or wrong slide. Hopefully I’ll get at least some kind of answer tomorrow.


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    CyberWolf

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    I probably should have just bought a Glock! I watched too many damn videos of people flying through the build with a drill, throwing it together and everything working fine. I figured if I took my time, checked and double checked everything, that I would be ok. For the life of me I can’t figure out what the hell i have done wrong. But I guess if the rails won’t fit in the slide then it’s the wrong rails or wrong slide. Hopefully I’ll get at least some kind of answer tomorrow.

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    ^You chose an ambitious starter project, which I respect, but it's far from the path of least resistance.

    These are the invoices for the parts I ordered. Everything should be compatible. Not sure why the slide slot is too narrow to go on the rails/locking block unless they sent the wrong one.

    View attachment 199286
    View attachment 199287


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    Looks like you at least ordered the correct parts (assuming that's what shipped).


    Ok, I did some “high tech” fanagaling and got the slide running on the rails smoothly. I put it back together 1 pin at a time and when I get down to the back pin on the locking block, it pulls the back down enough that they aren’t level anymore and I get the grinding again...

    ^this appears to reinforce my earlier guess that your drilled holes (at least one) is slightly off - keep in mind we're talking thousandths of an inch, which is why they can easily look correct but still be off.

    Other possibility is the block is out of spec, but the pic seems to show the rear locking block pin hole a hair lower than I would expect it to be. The front hole is machined at the factory, and is much more likely to be true than the self-drilled rear hole.

    If the rear hole is just a tiny bit too low, then when the rear pin is inserted, it will pull the block down too far and shift the plane of the front rail - in this case, likely just enough to prevent the slide moving backwards. The grinding is likely from the front rails rubbing on the slide with increased friction as the slide is being pushed up by the rear of the frame due to the small angle shift in the plane of the front rail.

    Possible way to check if rails or hole is out of spec would be: does front rail cam-down in the back when the trigger pin is inserted but without the rear locking block pin? Are the trigger amd rear locking block pins easy to insert, or does whichever is inserted second take a bit of force?

    If the trigger pin does not force the rail down, but the rear locking block pin does and is difficult to insert after trigger pin, then your driled holes are likely off.


    If either trigger or rear locking block pin forces the rear of the block down, and both go in with same resistance, then your block is likely out of spec and needs to be replaced...

    Just my .02
     

    CodyK

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    ^You chose an ambitious starter project, which I respect, but it's far from the path of least resistance.



    Looks like you at least ordered the correct parts (assuming that's what shipped).




    ^this appears to reinforce my earlier guess that your drilled holes (at least one) is slightly off - keep in mind we're talking thousandths of an inch, which is why they can easily look correct but still be off.

    Other possibility is the block is out of spec, but the pic seems to show the rear locking block pin hole a hair lower than I would expect it to be. The front hole is machined at the factory, and is much more likely to be true than the self-drilled rear hole.

    If the rear hole is just a tiny bit too low, then when the rear pin is inserted, it will pull the block down too far and shift the plane of the front rail - in this case, likely just enough to prevent the slide moving backwards. The grinding is likely from the front rails rubbing on the slide with increased friction as the slide is being pushed up by the rear of the frame due to the small angle shift in the plane of the front rail.

    Possible way to check if rails or hole is out of spec would be: does front rail cam-down in the back when the trigger pin is inserted but without the rear locking block pin? Are the trigger amd rear locking block pins easy to insert, or does whichever is inserted second take a bit of force?

    If the trigger pin does not force the rail down, but the rear locking block pin does and is difficult to insert after trigger pin, then your driled holes are likely off.


    If either trigger or rear locking block pin forces the rear of the block down, and both go in with same resistance, then your block is likely out of spec and needs to be replaced...

    Just my .02

    The “high tech fanagaling” was me using my hand to squeeze the rails/locking block together a smidge so they will slide onto the slide. Problem is, I’m trying not to bend them completely out of shape which is the point if no return. The slide won’t even start to go over the front locking block to even test if the rear rails are high or low now


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    zaitcev

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    Sep 24, 2019
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    I probably should have just bought a Glock! I watched too many damn videos of people flying through the build with a drill, throwing it together and everything working fine.

    It pretty much how it was for me: everything fit well and worked perfectly. Since I used a pocket knife for real, and I didn't have a steady hand of a real craftsman, I made accidental cuts that are visible from the outside. I smoothed them up, so they don't create a stress focus and prompt cracks. But the fit was fine.

    That said, I always considered any 80% project adventures where the road is the goal, not the destination. Of course you should have bought a factory-completed gun if you just wanted a gun.
     

    zaitcev

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    Sep 24, 2019
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    Problem is, I’m trying not to bend them completely out of shape which is the point if no return. The slide won’t even start to go over the front locking block to even test if the rear rails are high or low now.
    Well, that's true. The rear rails have to be level, too.

    BTW, as far as the thickness goes, one can always measure them with calipers. The front rails are part of the honest Glock-made locking block. So, just measure how thick _those_ rails are, and compare with the rear. That should set mind at peace about filing or grinding.
     

    CodyK

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    I just left the gun store that specializes in Glocks and P80 kits and we tried several GEN three slides and none of them would go on my rails. As I left I called P80 and they told me I need to just keep sanding on them a little bit at a time until my slide went on.


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    CodyK

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    Ok. I think it’s ready for another test at the range. Took all the coating off the front locking block/rails and polished the hell out of them (Polymer 80 recommended sanding them down until they fit correctly) After a lot of work they finally would go onto the slide. So I put everything back together and they were tight again! Took it all apart again and polished some more and took a look inside the channels where the locking block sits. I knew they were tight going in, but they’re supposed to be, but there were some high spots in there that was forcing the rails to squeeze at the bottom which made the top flare out so I sanded the inside as best I could until I got it to a point I think is acceptable. Still not 100%, but I got some 147 grain ammo to get it worked in. The spring on the guide rod definitely needs some breaking in. And I’m sure there is cerakote in the rail slots that needs to be worked off.

    Editors note: after cussing for a week and swearing off polymer 80’s, I couldn’t let a piece of plastic beat me. So I ordered another kit and I will drill one hole a day if I have to, but this damn thing will not beat me!


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    CodyK

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    Getting frustrated! It will fire 5-6 rounds no problem, then have a failure to feed. Clear that, then after 5-6 more another failure to feed. Gonna do some more polishing and try again Monday.


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    CyberWolf

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    Getting frustrated! It will fire 5-6 rounds no problem, then have a failure to feed. Clear that, then after 5-6 more another failure to feed. Gonna do some more polishing and try again Monday.


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    The key is to just keep at it and stay patient (easy to remove material, not so much for putting it back...)

    Some builds just go together like they were meant to be, but seems that many require some level of tuning.

    Also, keep in mind that it may be an issue of tolerance stacking, and part-specific considerations can affect functionality (e.g. - one build had failure to properly engage FP on return-to-battery every 4-5 rounds; solution was combo of polishing rear rail and using different connector - prob solved...)
     
    Last edited:

    CodyK

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    I’m gonna keep working to get it right, but I’m also wondering if a lighter recoil spring may help. The problem now is that the slide is not cycling back far enough to load the next round completely. On the 147 grain i can get 6-7 rounds in a row before a failure to feed, if I switch back to 115 grain, it won’t even eject the spent casing. I’m gonna sand and smooth the channel some more but I can’t feel a hang up anywhere when racking it so I’m not sure if that’s the issue or not.


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    Geezer

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    The first one that I built I couldn't find any hang up when I worked the slide by hand. After I removed more material from the recoil spring channel it actually felt smoother. Mine would do the same thing, run a few rounds and then fail to feed. Once I opened the channel up, it hasn't missed a beat.

    I could put a factory Glock 19 or Glock 23 upper on it and it would run like poop through goose. The aftermarket recoil spring had just a little larger diameter than the factory spring. Hang in there, you're almost there.
     

    CodyK

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    Is there a risk of taking too much out of the channel? I went down to the lines that they had marked, so it’s level with the bottom at the back and there is a small lip at the front. I thought about taking that lip off because it doesn’t seem that it would hurt anything, but I don’t want to take it all the way down and then ruin the frame.


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    Geezer

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    I don't think you can take too much out, within reason. Did you take the barrel and spring out and see how the slide felt on the frame? I'm betting that if you open that channel a little more your problem will go away.
     

    CodyK

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    I’m gonna try to open the channel some more. I’ve got my rails polished and the slide will slide on easy when they are out of the frame. When I put them in the frame I think it squeezes the bottom so much the top flares out and makes it tight. May take a little material out of the slot where rails sit also so they’re not so tight in there that it squeezes them. THIS GUN WILL WORK!!


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    CodyK

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    You notice I said “this gun will work” I never said “this gun will fire”! If all else fails I’m gonna tie a leather strap to the back so I can swing it around and knock the bad guys over the head!


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    Geezer

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    @CodyK , you are almost there. From what I've read in this thread, you have had little to no experience with the Glocks and their innards. You have done very well, in my opinion. You'll get it up and running.
    I got my first Glock in 1990 and have had several dozen over the years. I do not claim to be an expert on Glocks but I can strip one completely and reassemble it. I'm the guy that my friends call if they have a problem. I have one buddy that calls me the Glock Whisperer. Haha That said, I had a hiccup or two on my first 80% build.
     

    CodyK

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    I’m out of ideas! Emailed Polymer80 and sent some pics. We will see what they have to say. For some reason when I insert the front rail module into the frame, even just start it in, the slide starts to get hung up. Only thing I can think of is, they’re so tight in the frame that it’s bowing them out. But I don’t want to take a bunch of material out of the slot where they are supposed to go, because they have to be a little snug or else I’m gonna have another issue. I have assembled, dis-assembled, sanded, polished, measured, checked hole alignment in jig, and anything else I can think of, if P80 can’t help me, I’m not sure what to do next.


    Edit: Just checked my email and Polymer 80 is sending another front locking block. Hopefully that’s the problem.

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    CyberWolf

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    I’m out of ideas! Emailed Polymer80 and sent some pics. We will see what they have to say. For some reason when I insert the front rail module into the frame, even just start it in, the slide starts to get hung up. Only thing I can think of is, they’re so tight in the frame that it’s bowing them out. But I don’t want to take a bunch of material out of the slot where they are supposed to go, because they have to be a little snug or else I’m gonna have another issue. I have assembled, dis-assembled, sanded, polished, measured, checked hole alignment in jig, and anything else I can think of, if P80 can’t help me, I’m not sure what to do next.


    Edit: Just checked my email and Polymer 80 is sending another front locking block. Hopefully that’s the problem.

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    Just wanted to say stick with it and don't give up...

    I'm coming to the conclusion that while the
    p80 polymer parts are solid and consistent, whoever they're sourcing the metal parts from has some piss-poor machining tolerances/consistency and quality control. (hopefully someone from p80 reads this and takes note; would be awesome if that was addressed).

    Just finished a long-slide build and ran into an almost identical issue with the locking block rails. Nice and smooth now, but spent about 75% of the build-time slowly reducing the width of front-rails (performed with locking block/pins mounted in frame)
     
    Last edited:
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