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  • Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Jan 5, 2012
    18,591
    96
    HK
    Hey try taking a Dremel and polishing your chambers. It will help too


    Cut the loop off a Glock bore brush rod. Chuck in a cordless drill, smear Fritz on the brush, and run it in and out the chamber like you were honing it. Also works good polishing reloading die bores. It'll get it mirror. If a person doesn't have Fritz. Aluminum mag wheel polish, Meguiar's polishing compound etc. Rinse the polish out the chamber/bore with some mineral spirits. Works like a charm.
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    Landrover

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    0   0   0
    Jun 23, 2017
    167
    11
    New York
    Ok. I build a lot of ar15's and I have come across a lot of problems everyone needs to know about.
    1. Everybody coats differently
    2. Everybody has there own idea on what the tolerances should be.
    3. Everyone thinks SAAMI spec is SAAMI spec, its not.
    Here we go.
    1. Coatings:
    Almost everyone in the industry sends their stuff out to get coated. Not to many coat their own stuff. While things get coated, the coatings might be applied thicker than need be. So for this I use 080-598-180WB 1 3/16"-16 tpi Tap from Brownells to run the threads on the castle nut and lower receiver to clean out the threads from over coating and burs. I use 100-016-681WB AR-15 Buffer Tube Die 1 3/16"-16 on all my buffer tubes. I use 100-016-682WB AR-15 Upper Receiver Die 1 1/4-18" on the barrel nut threads. I use 080-598-528WB 1/2"-28 AR-15/M16 Tap on the Flash Suppressor bird cage, and 080-598-529WB AR-15/M16 Flash Suppressor Die. using these will clean up all threads and everything will mate faster and better.
    2. Tolerances:
    Ok after the machining process is completed and the part is in its raw state, all tolerances might be into spec. Now they go get coated and depending on who is coating them depends on if they stay in spec. I buy .250 reamers from Pacific Tool and Gauge to run my front and back take down pin holes.
    3. SAAMI spec.:
    Now I know I'm going to run into resistance on this but this is how it was explained to me by a renown know barrel reamer manufacture. There are 3 types of chamber specs out there. 2 SAAMI and 1 that is what ever the manufacture thinks it need to be. Now with that said, SAAMI has a semi auto spec and a bolt gun spec. Semi auto has to feed and extract automatically. So the chamber is loose. With a bole gun the chamber is tight. That's why bolt gun guys use SB die sets to get down to a tight tolerance for their chambers. I buy reamers for all my barrels just because I found out not everyone corks their barrels before coating. I have found a lot of chambers and land and grooves have been coated in the barrel coating process and I have lost chamber tolerance. A light reaming and polishing is what I do to every barrel before installation.

    That's just my 4 cents on the matter. I have fu%$ed up a lot of stuff and had to learn. Just passing it on so you don't waste any of your money on fu$# ups.
    Just wanted to make sure everyone here knows this is my info. I am a professional when it comes to putting Ar's together. Everything in this article is from my knowledge.
     

    easy rider

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    0   0   0
    Jun 10, 2015
    31,489
    96
    Odessa, Tx
    There are a ton of videos on Youtube. Mostly if you are somewhat mechanically inclined and have a few tools you shouldn't have a problem. You can get specs from the manufacturer.
     

    Landrover

    Member
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Jun 23, 2017
    167
    11
    New York
    There are a ton of videos on Youtube. Mostly if you are somewhat mechanically inclined and have a few tools you shouldn't have a problem. You can get specs from the manufacturer.
    I was just told I had to tell everyone where I got my info because of plagiarizing issues. I'm trying to be on the up and up.
     

    Recon2018

    New Member
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    0   0   0
    Jan 9, 2018
    16
    11
    Austin, TX
    Curious; does anyone here know how precision shooters "match" bolt to barrel for extreme accuracy/precision? Is it literally, grab a few bolts and hope one is the perfect spec?
     

    easy rider

    Summer Slacker
    Lifetime Member
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    0   0   0
    Jun 10, 2015
    31,489
    96
    Odessa, Tx
    Curious; does anyone here know how precision shooters "match" bolt to barrel for extreme accuracy/precision? Is it literally, grab a few bolts and hope one is the perfect spec?
    Depends on what you want and how much you want to spend. I have used Ground Zero Precision's "Dead Bolt", one of the sponsors of TGT, and had very good results. My best advice is to research what you are looking for. If you search well enough you can often find good prices.
     

    robertc1024

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    20   0   0
    Jan 22, 2013
    20,779
    96
    San Marcos
    On my only "precision AR" Precision Firearms reamed the barrel to headspace to the Grendel bolt I got as a package.
     

    MarkB462

    New Member
    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0
    Oct 26, 2018
    29
    11
    Austin
    Ok. I build a lot of ar15's and I have come across a lot of problems everyone needs to know about.
    1. Everybody coats differently
    2. Everybody has there own idea on what the tolerances should be.
    3. Everyone thinks SAAMI spec is SAAMI spec, its not.
    Here we go.
    1. Coatings:
    Almost everyone in the industry sends their stuff out to get coated. Not to many coat their own stuff. While things get coated, the coatings might be applied thicker than need be. So for this I use 080-598-180WB 1 3/16"-16 tpi Tap from Brownells to run the threads on the castle nut and lower receiver to clean out the threads from over coating and burs. I use 100-016-681WB AR-15 Buffer Tube Die 1 3/16"-16 on all my buffer tubes. I use 100-016-682WB AR-15 Upper Receiver Die 1 1/4-18" on the barrel nut threads. I use 080-598-528WB 1/2"-28 AR-15/M16 Tap on the Flash Suppressor bird cage, and 080-598-529WB AR-15/M16 Flash Suppressor Die. using these will clean up all threads and everything will mate faster and better.
    2. Tolerances:
    Ok after the machining process is completed and the part is in its raw state, all tolerances might be into spec. Now they go get coated and depending on who is coating them depends on if they stay in spec. I buy .250 reamers from Pacific Tool and Gauge to run my front and back take down pin holes.
    3. SAAMI spec.:
    Now I know I'm going to run into resistance on this but this is how it was explained to me by a renown know barrel reamer manufacture. There are 3 types of chamber specs out there. 2 SAAMI and 1 that is what ever the manufacture thinks it need to be. Now with that said, SAAMI has a semi auto spec and a bolt gun spec. Semi auto has to feed and extract automatically. So the chamber is loose. With a bole gun the chamber is tight. That's why bolt gun guys use SB die sets to get down to a tight tolerance for their chambers. I buy reamers for all my barrels just because I found out not everyone corks their barrels before coating. I have found a lot of chambers and land and grooves have been coated in the barrel coating process and I have lost chamber tolerance. A light reaming and polishing is what I do to every barrel before installation.

    That's just my 4 cents on the matter. I have fu%$ed up a lot of stuff and had to learn. Just passing it on so you don't waste any of your money on fu$# ups.

    Good info. I've wanted to build one for quite a while now and I'm trying to gather as much information as possible. Trying to find reliable and correct info is the hard part.

    Thank you
     

    Charlie

    TGT Addict
    Rating - 100%
    6   0   0
    Mar 19, 2008
    65,572
    96
    'Top of the hill, Kerr County!
    New question. Looking for advice regarding mid-length gas system on an AR. What length works best to be hidden under a 10.5 inch handguard? Mid-length, carbine length, etc.? It will be assembled with an adjustable gas block.
     

    toddnjoyce

    TGT Addict
    Rating - 100%
    4   0   0
    Sep 27, 2017
    19,285
    96
    Boerne
    New question. Looking for advice regarding mid-length gas system on an AR. What length works best to be hidden under a 10.5 inch handguard? Mid-length, carbine length, etc.? It will be assembled with an adjustable gas block.

    Carbine definitely, maybe mid. What’s the barrel length? Even with adj blocks, I’ll lean towards a longer gas system unless 300BLK, which always gets pistol.

    https://www.at3tactical.com/blogs/n...-rifle-a-beginner-s-guide-to-ar15-gas-systems
     

    DeudeMann

    New Member
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Apr 27, 2019
    34
    11
    San Antonio
    A few observations and some things to add:
    1. SAAMI is not SAAMI... Yes that is definitely true. One of the big reasons for the 224 Valkyrie debacle with factory ammo was for this very reason. Federal had marketed all of this great long range precision, and expectations were high.

    However, several, if not most of the barrel makers, including Savage in the MSR15 series, used reamers with a freebore that were as much as 0.040" longer than the SAAMI spec. That is not tolerance variance, that is way off. Freebore, bullet seating depth, and ogive control bullet jump, which with some bullets, like VLDs, is critical to precision to the point where a few thousandths can make a big difference. I handload and I have seen this while doing jump testing for load development.

    So the Federal ammo was loaded for a jump with the SAAMI spec freebore, and with the overall magazine length restriction, bullets were taking relatively huge jumps to the rifling. like 0.100". With some bullets this is OK and can even work well. With others, its terrible. In fact, a lot of Valkyrie early adopters (like me) found that the cheap American Eagle plinking ammo shot a lot better than their Sierra Match Ammo (which in most cases was terrible, like 2" groups at 100 yards).

    Long freebore is not necessarily a bad thing. Some handloaders get barrels with long freebores on purpose, but they are tuning their own jump. I could go on but I'll leave this one here. There is much discussion in the Valkyrie forums about this.
     
    Last edited:

    DeudeMann

    New Member
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Apr 27, 2019
    34
    11
    San Antonio
    2. For my AR15 I started off using a RCBS SB die for reloading. It worked, but was overworking the brass. Since I was loading for only one particular barrel, I switched to a standard die and it works just fine. For my 223R bolt bun, I neck size only.

    If I were loading AR15 for plinking in several guns, not precision for only one gun (like I usually do), then I would use a SB die.
     

    DeudeMann

    New Member
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Apr 27, 2019
    34
    11
    San Antonio
    3. If you are building an AR15 lower there is a GREAT trick for getting the detent ball and spring installed on the pivot pin. Look up the clevis pin trick on Youtube. The clevis pin is a very cheap piece of hardware you can pick up at Lowes or the like that will make that task really easy.
     
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