Hurley's Gold

I think I want to start loading my own...or at least be able to...

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  • West Texas

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    I looked at loading 20 years ago, but never got real serious about it...but now that I have the time I think I'd like to look at it again.

    I have my firearms narrowed down to the following. .380, .38spl, .45acp, 45LC, .30-.30, .223, 5.56, .410ga and 12ga.

    I know there are books and DVD's to teach me all I need to know, my main question at this point is what would YOU recomend I have in the way of equipment to do the above mentioned rounds?
    Guns International
     

    dobarker

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    Mar 26, 2010
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    I do have a Dillon 550 and love the heck out of it. And for reliable operation and ammo production it is second to none. Others will say otherwise, that is just my opinion. They do take a while to get used to, but once you get them set up and have a different die holder for each caliber, it becomes a matter of plug and play. As well, the customer service of the Dillon team is amazing. I bought my 550 used and rusty, missing a few parts and so forth, I called them, told them the situation and they sent me the parts I needed free of charge. They have always done right by me and make a very good product that has a no BS lifetime warranty, most other presses have a 3-5 year warranty.

    As far as starter equipment you'll need: a press, a good electronic scale (dillon d-terminator), die sets, powder trickler, case lube, bullets, powder, primers, brass, case trimming and preparing supplies (chamfer tool known as "cricket" works well) and some time and patience to get familiar with it all.
    Once again, these are just what I use, some can be substituted for other tools or thrown out completely.

    I learned how to reload on my 550b and it did take some time, I started by reloading 200+ dummy .38spl. rounds before I would even introduce powder and primers, it takes the majority of time to familiarize yourself with all the different operations and adjustments of the press, how to set the auto powder drop for proper grain weight and so forth.
    But all that usually gets figured out in the first night.

    And last but not least, in revolvers, lever-actions and bolt actions, case cleaning equipment isn't really needed. When the case gets nasty, just put a drop of bore cleaner on a rag and wipe off the cases. Powder burn rate and functionality are not affected by a cosmetically blemished case. The only things that do need cleaning are primer pocket and flash hole.

    There is a plethora of reloading knowledge on this forum and if you have any questions we'll all have answers.
     

    West Texas

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    I just spent an hour or so looking at the 550b, and it looks like I can be have everything I need to get going for about $1,200.00 if I buy all new, plus whatever I need in the way of primers.powder and bullets.

    What are you loading with it, and what do you figure your cost per round are?
     

    randmplumbingllc

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    the lee 1000 would do all but the shotgun.
    pretty cheap too. not the most durable though, but replacement parts are cheap

    The Dillon XL650 will do all but the shotgun.
    Pretty cheap too, "is" the most durable, and replacement parts are "free". The Dillon 650 is about $544.00, set up with one cal. conversion kit. Dies are seperate. You can add on a case feeder, bullet tray roller handle, etc. later.

    Best money I ever spent. I load 9 different cal's so far. Each is on its own toolhead, so I don't have to reset the die adjustments each time. I just swap out the toolhead assembly ( 2 pins ) , install the cal. conversion kit (takes about 5 min. ) and reload whatever cal. I need. Spend lots more time shooting with a progressive press then reloading on a single stage press. I can't even imagine loading pistol rounds for plinking on a single stage. Would probably take 12 hours to do a thousand. I can do a thousand 9mm in about 2 1/2 hrs. (i know.....I am slow. ) That time should speed up now, since I got some more primer pick up tubes. Will only have to stop once to reload primer tubes now.
     

    randmplumbingllc

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    I just spent an hour or so looking at the 550b, and it looks like I can be have everything I need to get going for about $1,200.00 if I buy all new, plus whatever I need in the way of primers.powder and bullets.

    What are you loading with it, and what do you figure your cost per round are?

    Not that you asked me, but the cost per round varies by type of bullet and cal. I shoot FMJ in all my rounds, except 38 spl.. It cost me anywhere between 11 and 16 cents a round. You can knock that down to about 4.5 to 5 cents , if you cast or swage your own bullets.
     

    dobarker

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    I just spent an hour or so looking at the 550b, and it looks like I can be have everything I need to get going for about $1,200.00 if I buy all new, plus whatever I need in the way of primers.powder and bullets.

    What are you loading with it, and what do you figure your cost per round are?
    I reload .45acp, .45 lc, .38spl/.357 mag, .30-30 cowboy lead loads and before I had a single stage I did .308 and .30-06 through it. I'm not honestly sure of cost per round because I lucked out when I bought the press, I was able to get the press and 20 lbs of assorted powder along with several thousand primers for rifle and pistol, and brass and bullets for $350. If you can do it go to a few auctions in the area, thats where I got mine. When ever some of our older reloading brothers pass on, some of us have to pick up where they left off.

    I'll crunch some numbers later today and try to come across a realistic cost per round for a few of them.
    I prefer to load with lead round nose and semi wad-cutters just because of the accuracy and extension of barrel life, lead also is a fair bit cheaper to load with than the jacketed rounds.
     

    TexMex247

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    May 11, 2009
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    Recommended reloading equipment

    I have only been reloading for about 2 years now. I started off with a lee hand press and 45LC dies. I have evolved to loading for 6 cals. on a lee turret press. The number one question to ask yourself is, why do you want to reload ? Economy ? Greater accuracy ? Or for the fun of it ? For me, it is all three. However, I am not a high volume shooter, I am more of a hand loader. People will argue that the progressive machines turn out ammo just as reliable as a turret or single stage. Personally I think that progressive machines omit some of the steps that give you true "match" quality ammo. Case prep is key in producing high quality rounds. Uniform brass lengths will give you more consistent crimps. Chamfering case necks will make bullets seat easier. Most progressive presses go right from depriming to priming,expanding case necks, dispensing powder through volume charging(not as accurate as a scale)then to bullet seating. They never give you a chance to chamfer case necks or check flash holes for uniformity, or even clean primer pockets. Dirty brass is no big deal but I prefer to tumble mine after every use. I take great pride in my handloaded "new" ammo as well as my reloads. If you are a high volume shooter, I can completely understand why you would want a progressive. You can churn out so much more ammo in one sitting. For me, my step by step process insures that I will have no squib loads because I visually verify powder charges BEFORE a bullet is seated as well as inspect the flash holes several times. If you have read about the perils of reloading, the common cause a Kaboom is an overcharge of powder, or a low pressure event(squib load) that is followed by a high pressure event(the next round pushing the bullet lodged in the barrel). I prefer to be safe rather than just make more bullets faster but that is your decision to make. No matter what route you take, you will need scales, books, handtools, calipers, dies and more. I recommend more than one powder scale, several of the books and I highly recommend the lee stuff to get started on a budget and still put out top notch ammo. Welcome to the wonderful world of reloading, be safe and good luck - Texmex
     

    West Texas

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    The main reason I want to get in to it now is economy and availablity. It's easier to store bullets, or cast my own if need be, and a lot cheaper than buying and storing ammo. The fun of it as well, as I remember helping a few old timers load when I was shooting a lot of trap & skeet years ago.

    accuracy would be important as well, but not to the extent that some may insist on, though just going bang and hitting in the general vacinty of the target isn't good, either...

    And since I don't know the difference in a turent and a prgressive machine...I guess I should read some more!
     

    dobarker

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    Did a few numbers and my .45acp load with win 231 powder, recycled brass and a 230gr. lead round nose bullet runs just a hair shy of 20 cents a round. My .308 win ammo with recycled brass runs about 68 cents a round due to using jacketed bullets, a lot more powder and lower brass life expectancy.
     

    M. Sage

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    I looked at loading 20 years ago, but never got real serious about it...but now that I have the time I think I'd like to look at it again.

    I have my firearms narrowed down to the following. .380, .38spl, .45acp, 45LC, .30-.30, .223, 5.56, .410ga and 12ga.

    I know there are books and DVD's to teach me all I need to know, my main question at this point is what would YOU recomend I have in the way of equipment to do the above mentioned rounds?

    You'll need at least two reloading setups. I don't know of any that will do handgun, rifle and shotgun. Shotgun loaders are a world unto themselves. At least most loaders will handle rifle and handgun.

    I have a Dillon 550, it's been great so far (I've loaded 1000 .45 ACP, about to start on .223) and reasonably economical. If you can afford the $120ish difference in price, I'd suggest a Dillon 650, but $120 is almost how much another caliber costs! I'm very happy with the 550, though, and can load up some ammo pretty fast with it, even if I do stop for a full quality control check every 50 rounds or so.

    Check BrianEnos.com for a few equipment tips. He's got a list of caliber swap parts that interchange between certain calibers on Dillon machines (like the shellplates for .45 fitting .308 and 9mm interchanging with .223).

    You'll need the loader, the proper dies (get carbide dies!!), proper powders primers and projectiles. You'll need a brass cleaner (trust me - buy the biggest you can) and media for it. You'll need an accurate scale that can measure small amounts of weight (I got the digital one from Brian Enos, seems alright). You'll need someplace to put it and a sturdy bench to put it on. You can get away without a media separator for a while, simply sorting the brass out of the media by hand. I recommend nut shell with rouge or something similar on it.

    If you're going to load rifle calibers for autoloaders, you will want some small-base dies (I had experienced loaders I trust recommend RCBS for this) and a Lee factory crimp die (which you'll probably want either way for rifle calibers).

    My point in that is, just make sure you don't only look at the price of the machine. Include the price of everything you'll need with it, too.
     

    robhillips

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    Jul 22, 2009
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    X2 on Brian Enos. Call him if you want info, he is very knowledgable, and will tell you exactly what you need. I have spoken to him several times via phone. I went through several setups before I settled on a decision. I original purchased a single stage rcbs, still have use it all the time. Then I bought a loadmaster by LEE, too many plastic parts for me. Some of the design works well. If you fidget with it a little you can produce quality ammo. The casefeeder is amazingly simple and works.
    Then I bought an LNL, awesome machine, all steel. Had to adjust the timing initially, it's very easy actually, some people say it's difficult. I think this machine provides the best value. One think I really like about it is that you can load casings and bullets from the left side never having to take your hand of the handle. Conversions are around 40 bucks for plate and bushings for dies. I can easily turn our 400 rounds an hour without a casefeeder.
    Later I bought some blue koolaid in the form of a dillon 650. It has all the bells and whistles, casefeeder and all. It is not near as easy to change calibers, by no means is it difficult though. Caliber conversions are too expensive though, around $120. I also do not like the powder bar adjustment setup. The plate does not seem as tight as my LNL but it turns out quality ammo.
    Each of these reloaders has a place, although cost is factor. The LEE was about $250 setup and ready to go, the LNL was about $600, and the 650 was nearly $1000.
     

    Leadpot

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    You can't go wrong with a Dillon if you get one in a 550B press. Their customer service is good also. They have never let me down thru the years. Good Luck.
     

    cconn

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    I originally purchased a Dillon 650. At first I was only reloading 45 ACP and 45 Colt. The Dillon 550 or 650 both allow fast caliber change out if you buy separate toolheads. I prefer the 650 because it has the extra station where I use a powder checker, and it auto indexes. Did not have the casefeeder for the first 3 or 4 years I used it.
    Later I added a RCBS Rockchucker when I started reloading 22-250 and 308. For the shotguns, I have a MEC Jr. set up for 12 gauge, and a MEC Sizemaster in 20 gauge. Both good machines, the Jr is over 25 years old.
     

    jcrntx

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    May 21, 2010
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    Well I just got started loading and on a budget to boot. Got a basic Lee challenger press and Lee powder disk system in trade from another board member for duracoating a pistol slide. Had been picking up brass for a while in anticipation of getting started. Bought a few thousand CCI primers off gunbroker, a few lee die sets and other misc. parts from Midway and some lead bullets from Missouri Bullet. Just turned out my first 380 and 9mm rounds! One of the things I have always wanted to know how to do and now am on my way! Maybe one day I will graduate to a Dillon .
     

    barhob

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    Dec 13, 2009
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    hi W.T.
    what ever machine you may get, you will need an experienced reloader to help you out getting started.
    you cannot learn to reload out of a book !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (well, you can, and good luck.)
    if you do not know anyone. ask at your local range, gunshop, etc.
    i have the 550B for pistol/revolver and rcbs single stage for rifle.
     
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